So, I finally tried S&M for the first time in December. Now before you get the wrong idea, I’m actually talking about Smoke and Mirrors, the Old Portsmouth restaurant that opened last February in 2023. Mind you, given the mysterious dark décor that greeted us on arrival, we did wonder what was in store…
As a family, we’ve been meaning to visit Smoke & Mirrors for a while, and last month, two of us finally got the opportunity to go along.
The restaurant is owned and operated by hands-on pair Caitlyn, who manages front of house – and Jordan, who runs the kitchen.
Jordan previously worked at Marco Pierre White’s home as his executive chef, and the new venture marks a return to his home city where he began his career as a kitchen porter in Southsea!
Their aim is to offer fine dining in a relaxed environment and at an affordable price point. So, have they succeeded?
The venue
On entering, we found ourselves immediately seduced by the smoky-black colour tones which definitely make this place stand out.
Smoke & Mirrors is a small venue – we counted no more than 20 seats on our visit. This makes it feel intimate and welcoming – and a world away from the city’s many bigger, noisier restaurants.
We also loved the attention to detail. For example, there’s an attractive gallery wall featuring naval-themed artefacts, while the tables are topped with candlesticks and patterned cutlery.
The Menu
The approach at Smoke and Mirrors is to offer a compact menu with no more than five or six options for each course. This changes seasonally and the food is freshly prepared each day.
The menu is confident and a little bit different. Many dishes are familiar ones with a modern creative twist, and there are a few more unusual surprises too.
Caitlyn tells me that two of Jordan’s most intriguing creations are smoked breast of duck, and fishcakes made with black (charcoal) breadcrumbs.
I’ve also heard great things from other people about the smoked haddock scotch egg, and the goats cheese sorbet.
We ate from their set-price three course Christmas menu, priced at £38, while three courses from the regular à la carte menu should work out around the same.
Our Food
I chose smoked haddock arancini to start. The outside was nicely crispy while the inside was fabulously gooey. My dining companion chose guineafowl terrine with spiced fig chutney and she found it rich, decadent and delicious.
For the main, I ordered pithivier of turkey which was a sort of turkey pie – lightly minced meat in a fine pastry wrapping. It was nicely flavoured and the pastry was lovely and crispy (a real treat for this gluten-free diner). My guest opted for the spicy honey glazed pork belly which she said tasted great and was perfectly cooked.
For pudding, we both chose clementine crème brûlée with shortbread, a nice seasonal take on a classic.
We ordered some fizzy water and Pinot Grigio by the glass from a short wine list, and service was friendly and attentive throughout.
At the point of booking, we were told that dietary requirements weren’t a problem and asked if there were any particular dishes I was interested in having gluten-free. True to their word, these were all made available on the night. So I think anyone with a special diet would feel confident eating here – just let the restaurant know when you make your booking.
Our Take
We enjoyed our first visit to Smoke and Mirrors and both immediately decided we wanted to go back!
We felt that it succeeds in bringing something different to the city – both in terms of cooking and atmosphere – and manages to hit something of a sweet spot between relaxed and fine dining.
You can sense a real passion for food here. I love the personality that Jordan brings to the menu, while the décor also helps to create a sense of occasion – perfect for a date night perhaps.
Most satisfyingly of all, we left with a refreshing feeling you don’t get so often these days – that it was good value for the quality of the cooking. You won’t leave here feeling short-changed.
Note: Smoke & Mirrors is currently closed for refurbishment and will re-open with a new menu on Friday 31 January. Smoke and Mirrors is located at 39 High Street, Old Portsmouth PO1 2LU and is open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday and for Sunday lunch. Advance booking required.
